Santa Fe Arts and Culture Magazine: View Article

09.06.07 20:20 Age: 3 yrs

Ghosts of San Miguel

Original Publication:
theroadwanderer.net

By: Guy Randall

Santa Fe's Oldest Neighborhood

San Miguel Mission is perhaps the oldest church in the United States, but it is surrounded by equally old homes and shops in Santa Fe's oldest district. The block around San Miguel was once the site of an Indian Pueblo dating back to the 1200s. Across the narrow street from the church is the oldest house in the United States, in fact the street is lined with sunbaked adobe buildings going back to the early 1600s. Centuries of history have unfolded here, some tragic and violent. There's history here from countless lives and the unfolding of human drama. This is the area that saw a clash of cultures with the coming of the Spanish and the subjugation of the Pueblo Indians. The Pueblo Revolt against the Spanish overlords started with the ringing of San Miguel's bell in 1680. So much life and so much death has happened in and around San Miguel Mission, is there any wonder that some of these souls have refused to leave even after centuries have passed? Whether you believe in ghosts or not, there's something other worldly about Santa Fe' oldest neighborhood as you will see.

 

The Interior of San Miguel is a wonderful blend of Native American and Spanish Colonial styles. Some of the artwork dates back to the 1600s. You can feel the history of Santa Fe all around you. This is a sacred place. Maybe that's why some spirits refuse to leave.

Altar Figures
Beautiful Santos Grace the Back Altar.

Restoration of the Oldest House in the U.S.

As part of Hampton Inn's Save-A-Landmark® program they hired the contractor, Olin Construction, and provided the funds to refurbish the deteriorating interior of the oldest house in the U.S. On the 15th of May, 2003 the Route 66 Caravan, also sponsored by Hampton Inn® and led by Jim Conkle of the California Route 66 Preservation Foundation stopped by to celebrate this great part of our American and Route 66 heritage. I was a part of this historic event and was looking forward to taking some great pictures that day. We got more than we bargained for. I wonder if the refurbishment of the Oldest House in the United States might have stirred up more than just the dust of centuries gone by...

House Restoration

Brother Lester with old Spanish Relic

Brother Lester holds an old Spanish artifact dug from the floor of the oldest house when the electrician was laying a new electric line. Could this have been an anchor to tether pack mules or horses? The groove in the center was purposely cut into the rock as if to hold a rope.

 


 

History of the Oldest House

Oldest House Circa 1880s
The oldest house in the 1880s

Oldest House Exterior 2003
The oldest house today.

This old adobe is known as the oldest house in the U.S. and was built over an ancient pueblo that dates back to the 1200s. In fact some of the lower walls show evidence of Pueblo adobe work rather than Spanish Colonial adobe work. The original Spanish section of the oldest house dates back to 1610. Most likely Indian laborers, the same people that built San Miguel Mission across the street, built it. When you think of four hundred years of history, of the human drama being played out within the walls of this old adobe house it can be staggering. How many lifetimes were spent in this house? How many generations lived and died here. What where their stories? Who were the people that once called this old house home? We will probably never know. Ah, what stories lie buried under the dust of centuries!

Oldest House Circa 1912
The oldest house in 1912, notice the second story is gone.
The second story was rebuilt in 1925.

Oldest House in the AfternoonIn the twentieth century the house was used as a store and curio shop. At one time there was an old Indian mummy sitting in a rocking chair in the back room. Legend has it he used to live in the house during the late 1920s - early 1930s. When someone noticed he hadn't shown up at the mission for a few days the Brothers came looking for him. He had died in the house.

An even eerier legend has it that the old Indian is still around. Some visitors claim that they will see an old Indian sitting in the corner then look again and he will be gone. Brother Lester, the director of San Miguel Mission, hinted that there were some mighty strange legends and happenings from time to time along this oldest block in the oldest city in the U.S. I was about to find out too. In fact a couple of months after the Route 66 Caravan's visit to San Miguel and the oldest house Brother Lester sent me an e-mail. He was taking a visitor on a tour of the newly refurbished old house and that person had to leave the premises abruptly later claiming that they couldn't bear to stay in the house any longer. They felt some sort of a presence that scared the heck out of them. But I digress, let's start back on that fine spring day in May of 2003.


Photos: New Mexico Glass Alliance, www.glassnm.org